服裝廠加工服裝時，對服裝部件或成衣作熱處理的工藝就(jiu)是(shi)熨燙。

　　作用

　　熨燙的(de)作用有：①平(ping)整，消(xiao)除織物(wu)褶(zhe)縐。②整緯(wei)，矯正織物(wu)染整工(gong)藝(yi)中(zhong)形(xing)成(cheng)的(de)緯(wei)向絲綹歪斜，使(shi)織物(wu)復原，以利(li)裁剪、縫(feng)制(zhi)。③預伸縮，防止衣片在縫(feng)制(zhi)中(zhong)因受熱而產生伸縮現象(xiang)。④變(bian)形(xing)，利(li)用織物(wu)可塑性，將織物(wu)局部變(bian)形(xing)，促使(shi)衣片形(xing)態由(you)直變(bian)弧(hu)(hu)或(huo)由(you)弧(hu)(hu)變(bian)直，以便加工(gong)出合體的(de)成(cheng)衣。⑤整形(xing)，對成(cheng)衣外(wai)(wai)形(xing)進(jin)行修改整理，彌補工(gong)藝(yi)操作中(zhong)的(de)不(bu)足，使(shi)外(wai)(wai)觀平(ping)挺、貼服、不(bu)外(wai)(wai)翹。

　　條件

　　熨燙需具備溫度(du)(du)、濕(shi)度(du)(du)、壓力三方(fang)面(mian)的(de)(de)條件。其(qi)中(zhong)溫度(du)(du)是(shi)關鍵。按(an)各類(lei)織物的(de)(de)性能特點，使(shi)外加的(de)(de)輸熱度(du)(du)與(yu)織物固有的(de)(de)耐熱度(du)(du)要相適(shi)應(ying)。溫度(du)(du)過高會損壞織物，過低則熨燙無效。通常掌(zhang)握的(de)(de)熨燙溫度(du)(du)：合成纖維90～160℃(其(qi)中(zhong)錦綸90℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(you))，絲類(lei)120℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(you)，羊(yang)毛類(lei)160℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(you)(加濕(shi)布(bu)200℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(you))，棉(mian)布(bu)類(lei)180℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(you)，麻類(lei)190℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(you)。

　　熨燙(tang)壓力的(de)大小和(he)時間長短(duan)，需(xu)根據衣料(liao)厚薄(bo)和(he)原料(liao)固(gu)有性能(neng)(neng)而定(ding)。一般薄(bo)型質松的(de)衣料(liao)所需(xu)壓力較(jiao)小，熨燙(tang)時間也短(duan)，厚型質密衣料(liao)反(fan)之。織(zhi)物不(bu)能(neng)(neng)直接(jie)放在案(an)面上熨燙(tang)，需(xu)墊薄(bo)毯(tan)，毛料(liao)產(chan)品還需(xu)上蓋濕布，以保持(chi)衣服整潔而不(bu)產(chan)生反(fan)射光。

　　方法

　　熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)方(fang)法主(zhu)要(yao)有：①推、歸、拔(ba)(ba)(ba)。是加工(gong)毛(mao)料(liao)服(fu)(fu)裝的傳統熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)技法，能(neng)使(shi)平(ping)面(mian)狀衣片(pian)(pian)產生(sheng)立體(ti)造(zao)型(xing)，以及服(fu)(fu)裝貼體(ti)平(ping)整的效(xiao)果(guo)。推與歸交互進(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)。推，是在衣片(pian)(pian)的胸(xiong)、背(bei)、臀等(deng)(deng)(deng)部(bu)(bu)位(wei)進(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)推燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，使(shi)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)隆(long)起;歸，是根據人體(ti)凸起的邊緣部(bu)(bu)位(wei)，將衣片(pian)(pian)相應部(bu)(bu)位(wei)的織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)進(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)聚集歸縮熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，使(shi)邊緣長(chang)度縮短，使(shi)凸起部(bu)(bu)位(wei)效(xiao)果(guo)更顯(xian)著。拔(ba)(ba)(ba)，是對(dui)衣片(pian)(pian)需要(yao)延(yan)展的部(bu)(bu)分，將織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)拔(ba)(ba)(ba)開(伸長(chang))熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，通常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)衣片(pian)(pian)的腰部(bu)(bu)、袖(xiu)(xiu)肘、領(ling)(ling)腳(jiao)和褲片(pian)(pian)中襠(dang)(膝位(wei))等(deng)(deng)(deng)部(bu)(bu)位(wei)。②磨燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)力多(duo)次往返重復熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。多(duo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)胸(xiong)襯(chen)和胸(xiong)顙頂端燙(tang)(tang)(tang)服(fu)(fu)。③壓(ya)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)力壓(ya)住(zhu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)進(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，使(shi)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)定型(xing)并燙(tang)(tang)(tang)薄。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)衣襟(jin)、衣角(jiao)等(deng)(deng)(deng)。④烘燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)懸空(kong)不直接接觸織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)傳溫方(fang)式(shi)進(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)服(fu)(fu)裝的領(ling)(ling)、駁領(ling)(ling)、下擺(bai)等(deng)(deng)(deng)有角(jiao)部(bu)(bu)位(wei)，使(shi)之不外翹。⑤軋燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。運(yun)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)外側，沿縫(feng)緝的圓弧，借(jie)助鐵凳(燙(tang)(tang)(tang)肩部(bu)(bu)、袖(xiu)(xiu)窿的凳狀工(gong)具)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)上衣的袖(xiu)(xiu)窿弧、西(xi)褲的襠(dang)弧等(deng)(deng)(deng)。⑥吸燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。在織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)上覆蓋濕布，高溫快速輕浮熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)厚呢絨面(mian)的毛(mao)茸，以及消除水花、亮光等(deng)(deng)(deng)。⑦分燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。運(yun)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)尖部(bu)(bu)將疊合的緝縫(feng)分開熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。⑧扣(kou)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。將縫(feng)口或褶邊折轉扣(kou)住(zhu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)貼袋(dai)縫(feng)口或各類褶邊等(deng)(deng)(deng)。⑨坐燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)前側將緝縫(feng)一邊定向燙(tang)(tang)(tang)倒。多(duo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)夾里褶縫(feng)口熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。⑩翻(fan)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。部(bu)(bu)件經反面(mian)縫(feng)緝后翻(fan)出于(yu)正面(mian)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)袋(dai)蓋、衣領(ling)(ling)、門襟(jin)、里襟(jin)等(deng)(deng)(deng)部(bu)(bu)件。粘燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。刮漿熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)式(shi)粘合襯(chen)(見(jian)服(fu)(fu)裝材料(liao))熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，起粘合作用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)。

　　工具

　　熨(yun)(yun)斗(dou)是服裝熨(yun)(yun)燙的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)主要工(gong)(gong)具。中國(guo)(guo)漢(han)代(dai)已(yi)有熨(yun)(yun)斗(dou)，又(you)稱“火(huo)(huo)斗(dou)”，為裝炭(tan)(tan)火(huo)(huo)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)勺(shao)形(xing)物。近(jin)代(dai)熨(yun)(yun)燙是烙鐵和以(yi)炭(tan)(tan)為熱源利用(yong)(yong)風箱催溫的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)炭(tan)(tan)熨(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(俗稱炭(tan)(tan)火(huo)(huo)輪)。20世(shi)紀(ji)50年代(dai)起(qi)較普遍使用(yong)(yong)電熨(yun)(yun)斗(dou)。50年代(dai)后期，中國(guo)(guo)第一代(dai)“三領機(ji)”研制成(cheng)功(gong)，用(yong)(yong)于襯衫(shan)領的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)粘(zhan)合和弧定(ding)型;英國(guo)(guo)發明以(yi)熱壓方式粘(zhan)合可(ke)熔性襯布的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)專(zhuan)用(yong)(yong)粘(zhan)合機(ji)。粘(zhan)合機(ji)已(yi)發展成(cheng)能控(kong)時、控(kong)壓、控(kong)溫的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)滾壓和平壓式兩(liang)種(zhong)(zhong)，成(cheng)為與縫制新(xin)工(gong)(gong)藝(yi)配套(tao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)新(xin)型熨(yun)(yun)燙工(gong)(gong)具。對半成(cheng)品和成(cheng)品的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)熨(yun)(yun)燙，已(yi)應(ying)用(yong)(yong)模壓、充氣、多工(gong)(gong)位回(hui)轉(zhuan)等蒸(zheng)汽(qi)熨(yun)(yun)燙機(ji)和衣片歸拔(ba)機(ji)。一套(tao)西服蒸(zheng)汽(qi)熨(yun)(yun)燙設(she)備可(ke)完成(cheng)熨(yun)(yun)燙衣袖(xiu)、衣身、立體整形(xing)等12種(zhong)(zhong)最終(zhong)熨(yun)(yun)燙和分縫、歸拔(ba)等18種(zhong)(zhong)中間熨(yun)(yun)燙，使產(chan)品干燥、燙跡定(ding)型、無(wu)亮光。現代(dai)熨(yun)(yun)燙新(xin)設(she)備、新(xin)工(gong)(gong)藝(yi)，極大地提高了(le)產(chan)品的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)熨(yun)(yun)燙質(zhi)量。

　　服(fu)裝廠(chang)在制成一(yi)件衣服(fu)，熨(yun)燙整理衣服(fu)也是很重要的，一(yi)件經過(guo)熨(yun)燙和未(wei)經過(guo)處理的，差(cha)別是很大的。